Pnomh Penh is a bustling city of two million or so people. Asia's ubiquitous motos and tuk tuks compete on to road with cars (so man Lexus!), with pedestrians running a distant last. Street markets are surrounded by a growing number of cafes catering to increasing number of western tourists, as well as the few Cambodians who can afford to eat there. This is a city and nation on the rise. It is also a city where economic and ethical ambiguities are front and centre.
Last night I was chatting with my hosts, Scott and Rach. They have lived here for a year now as they lead the Interserve team of 40 or so mission workers in this country. They told me the average wage here is around $US80 a month. Not a 'living wage', even in Cambodia. People rely on family or have two jobs, or if they are 'lucky', benefit from the trickle down effect of corruption.
So in this complex mix, what place tourism? Tourism is a blessing and curse here. The blessing is the job creation that has resulted from Western demand and Cambodian ingenuity. The curse is the endemic sex industry that preys on the youngest and most vulnerable of women.
I want to come back to Cambodia. Like the rest of south-east Asia, I find it a beguiling place full of intoxicating sights, sounds, tastes and smells. When I return I want to do so responsibly; in a way that helps in some small way the Cambodian people. So where I can, I will stay in smaller, Cambodian owned guest houses. I will buy souvenirs from fair trade suppliers that benefit the poorest of the poor. And I will interact as much as I can with local people as their guest.